Saturday 2 January 2021

Southern Highlands Safari - 3. Mikumi National Park

For the final few days of our safari we based ourselves in the TANAPA cottages a few km inside the main gate to the park.  After our experiences with the cottages in Ruaha we were a bit anxious but we needn't have worried.  Our Mikumi cottage was clean, neat and tidy and everything (except the aircon) worked.  Once again the restaurant served excellent basic meals although waiting until dinner time to put beers in the fridge is rather curious and annoying.


The park had a nice cover of fresh new grass after recent rain.

We briefly visited this park in 2010 while we were doing a Swahili course in Morogoro.  On that occasion we only had half a day so this was a chance to really get to know the park and to chase a few new birds.  On this visit we spent three days in all driving the trails and covered most of the park north of the highway and a small section to the south.  I was hopeful of seeing Pale-billed Hornbills and we ventured into their preferred miombo woodland habitat several times but were driven out by tsetse flies on each occasion.


European Honey Buzzard

Spotted Flycatcher

Spotted Hyaena

Some highlights were a male lion with a Wildebeest carcass, many Southern Ground Hornbill sightings, huge numbers of Barn Swallows and European Rollers, nice wildflowers following recent rain and new bird species: Harlequin Quail and Cuckoo-finch.  106 birds species in total in the park.

Cuckoo-finch (so called because it parasitises small bird species such as Cisticolas and Prinias).

Adult and juvenile Southern Ground Hornbill

An excited Red-necked Spurfowl 

Greater Kudu

Every second bush seemed to have a European Roller

Since we have been back in Tanzania this was the first time we have shared a park with more than one or two other safari vehicles.  It was never busy but if you looked across the plains you could always see other vehicles.  Many were flying in from Zanzibar for a day trip - arriving around 10am and leaving by 4pm.

Only my second ever Dickinson's Kestrel

A ground orchid - possibly Eulophia speciosa (photo by Jenny)

A dozen or so Hippos waiting out the dry season in this shrinking, disgusting pool.

A Black Coucal acquiring breeding plumage.

We spent another night in Dodoma (Saint Gaspar's Hotel, recommended) and then arrived home safely on the 19th.  300 species of birds exactly, 36 new for my Tanzania list and 21 lifers.  Next up is a short trip to Mkomazi National park to our east on the Kenya border.

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