Saturday, 18 January 2020

Safari part 1 - Lakes Manyara and Natron

Sunday 29th December 2019 - Wednesday 1 January 2020

We allowed Rob and Lou an easy start to the safari.  Sleep in, leisurely repacking of bags, lunch at Butter & Scotch Café at Sable Square and then off to Africa Safari Glamping in time for a swim or bird walk before dinner and sleep in their lovely safari tents.  Next morning we were through the gate into Lake Manyara National Park early and headed off towards the Hot Springs picnic area for lunch. We were thwarted by the disappearance of a bridge on the only road down so had to dawdle along the various side roads in the northern end of the park.  Despite missing out on the hot springs and spectacle of Flamingos we enjoyed the park as usual and saw over 80 species of birds and a good assortment of mammals.  Back to the camp in time for another swim or bird walk before dinner.

Silvery-cheeked Hornbill
Vitelline Masked Weaver
Who stole the bridge?
Spotted Palm Thrush
Three-banded Courser
Blue Monkey
African Spoonbill
Infant Vervet Monkey

Next morning we were up early to meet our driver for the next 10 days - Stanley Mbogo from Zorilla Safaris and Treks.  Stanley has been a friend and guide for us since we first met him in 2015.  Typically he was right on time.  We had picked up a puncture in the Rav the previous day so had to change the flat tyre before we could move on.  Inevitably we gathered spectators who proceeded to take over the job (for a small fee).  The Rav was left at Africa Safari for the duration while we headed north to Lake Natron and beyond.

Adult Vervet Monkey
Dragonfly
How many Maasai men does it take to change a tyre?

Once on the way we quickly left the tarmac at Mto Wa Mbu and headed around the eastern side of the Rift Valley wall to Lake Natron.  The road up was a great deal rougher than when we had come this way in September due to the heavy rain in the region since October.  There were many places where I doubt the Rav would have succeeded in getting through but a diverse range of vehicles travel this road regularly.  The other change since September was the green grass everywhere.  This is not a desert but averages about 800 mm of rain per year.  June-October is usually totally rainless however so we first saw it at its driest.  Many bumps, some nice birds and mammals later we arrived at Worldview Campsite and our rooms for the next two nights.  This was New Years Eve so we shared a bottle of bubbly but didn't stay up for the fireworks.  I'm sure they were spectacular.

Aloes on the way to Lake Natron.

A green transformation after good recent rain.

Ol Doinyo Lengai - an active volcano.

Next morning the 2020 bird list began so every bird was new and exciting.  We did the obligatory pre-breakfast walk to the lake shore for flamingos and Maasai handcraft purchasing then chilled in the afternoon until the drive to the lake to watch the sun go down with a beer or two.  Not a bad way to spend day one of a new year.

The Worldview Campsite view towards Lake Natron.

How many generations of Maasai boys have tended their flocks here?

Lesser Flamingos over Lake Natron.

Jenny and Lou shopping for handcrafts.

Sundowners by Lake Natron, New Years Day 2020.

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