Wednesday, 22 January 2020

Safari part 2 - Lake Natron to Lake Victoria

January 2nd saw us up early and heading up the western side of Lake Natron towards the Kenyan border.  The road was rough but the scenery through rocky gorges was spectacular as we climbed from 600 m to 2000 m near Loliondo/Wasso towns and then dropped down again to 1750 m as we turned west into Serengeti NP via Klein's Gate.  Many birds along the way including several Wheatear species, displaying Kori Bustards, Northern Red-billed Hornbills and my first Long-tailed Paradise Whydah and Straw-tailed Whydah.  Many colourful Blue-headed Tree Agamas were basking on rocks along the way.

Isabelline Wheatear.
Kori Bustard putting on a show.

Northern Red-billed Hornbill.

Blue-headed Tree Agama.
From Klein's Gate it was a short drive south to Lobo Wildlife Lodge where we were to spend the next two nights.  This is a government owned but privately managed lodge built in, on and around a large kopje.  It has maybe 50-60 rooms and the biggest dining room-bar-lounge I've ever seen at a lodge.  We had the place almost to ourselves which was actually a bit overwhelming.

Looking down on the dining room.
Looking up to the lounge - not Jenny standing waaaaay back.
In May 2017 we visited Kidepo NP in the ne corner of Uganda and saw the ruins of Idi Amin's lodge.  It was remarkably similar in concept and situation to Lobo Lodge.  Compare the two photos!

Lobo Lodge, Serengeti NP.
Idi Amin's lodge (maybe being renovated), Kidepo NP, Uganda.
We went for a game drive on the first morning and got well and truly bogged in a side track.  Stanley had the necessary equipment to get us out so he and Rob did the dirty work while I stood on a large rock scanning for lions (and birds).  We also went on a late afternoon game drive but avoided the mud.

Our first Spotted Hyena for the trip.
A lifer - Great Spotted Cuckoo.
Klipspringer - at home among the boulders.

Topi mother and baby - so much grass.
Pygmy Falcon.
Elephants of assorted sizes.
Jenny and Lou liked the pools in some of the lodges.
Stanley and Rob digging, me on lion watch and Jenny supervising.
Out! - thanks to lots of digging, rock placement and two recovery tracks.
Next morning we were up early (there is a theme developing here) for extensive game driving south to the Seronera region of the park and then back north and east out of the park via Ikoma Gate to Grumeti Migration Camp for one night.  We had great birding there in the afternoon and following morning.  Again we had the place to ourselves.

A porcupine caught out after sun-up.
A Coqui Francolin in full voice.
Hippos - not sure what the front two are smiling about.
Dassies were everywhere in this picnic ground.
Our first Leopard!
Rob is in this picture somewhere - can you find him?
Grumeti Migration Camp lounge building.
View from our tent at Grumeti Migration Camp.
Off again through game reserves and villages on a good gravel road that took us to the large town of Bunda on the eastern shore of Lake Victoria.  This is 'our' lake as we lived in Bukoba on its western shore in 2010-11 and near its northern shore in Uganda in 2016-17.  We stayed in Speke Bay Lodge for two nights.  This is one of our favourite lodges with a great setting on the lake shore and with high quality acacia woodland to wander through.  We shared the lodge with one other couple.

African Paradise Flycatcher.
Pearl-spotted Owlet.
Jenny, Rob and Lou lunching at Speke Bay Lodge - a nice change from the lunch boxes we have had most days.
Grey-headed Kingfisher.
Swamp Flycatcher.
The swimming pool promised when last we visited in 2011 has not yet eventuated but it was nice to wander the woodlands and lake shore and then sit and watch the waves after a fairly frantic pace and lots of driving in recent days.

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